Skip to main content

Palmerston Atoll: Beautiful island, wonderful people…and lots of coconut….

Palmerston Atoll in the distance...land ahoy!

On the third day after leaving Rarotonga and two nights of seasickness, little sleep, cracked heads and shins on the exposed hatches of the never ending rocking “rust bucket”, little food and increasing concern about the seaworthiness of the vessel, we glimpsed a sliver of land on the horizon.  Palmerston!  We crowded onto the upper deck to view the sliver increasing in size as we got closer.  
  
The captain had briefed us previously that the islanders of Palmerston knew nothing about tourism and he had had a nasty alteraction previously with one of the elders, Simon, about the visitors going to the island.  It seems that Simon also had a long memory.  When we were finally shipped ashore by the islanders who greeted us with huge smiles, hearty waves and much excitement, Simon addressed the passenger group as a whole, explaining that the captain was not welcome on the island…but that we were.  The captain had broken a well understood protocol about visitors to the island and their accommodation situation with the island’s families.  Simon made it clear to us, however, that we were most welcome and that no effort would be spared in making our two days pleasant ones.

I made us another cosy nest in our bungalow loft

After being shown to our sparse but comfortable “bungalow ”loft above the local “yacht club” my companion, Damien, and I joined  the other passengers, by now good friends  united in our distrust of the captain, at what can only be described as an island feast, prepared by one of Simon’s relatives, Kai and her family.   As it turned out, Kai’s cousin was Stella Neale, the daughter of the lone inhabitant in the 60s and 70s of Suwarrow, Tom Neale, who recountered his experience in his book An Island to Oneself  (see my post of May 10). Stella, the island nurse,  was to be very much the liaison for us all during our stay.

Our first meal on land..a banquet in a thatched dining room

The feast included chilled coconut water, drunk from the coconut, fish, some salad (which we had brought with us on the boat), and coconut bread. I contributed some New Zealand sparkling wine to toast our hosts. 

The following morning we all met again for breakfast, again in island style, with  fish, island fruit, coconut donuts, and coconut bread.

Then it was off to a nearby motu (little island) where we could all snorkel and join in the experience of cooking freshly caught red reef fish in a makeshift “oven” on the beach which was covered with leaves to steam the fish while it roasted. We also had uto straight from the fire.  The youngest coconut is husked and then put in coals.  When it is opened the flesh of the coconut, the uto,  is the consistency of firm marshmallow with a sweet, smoky flavour - delicious!

Stella with uto fresh from the fire
Kai made baskets and plates with coconut fronds and pandanas leaves and if we needed any implements to complement our fingers Taii Chi, one of our fellow passengers, made chopsticks out of pandanas stalks. 



The afternoon was truly magical and  inspirational…that people will so little could provide so much – not just food and friendship, but the laughter and genuine happiness that comes from sharing wonderful experiences.

That evening was yet another feast!  So simple, but this time, we were joined at the table by Kai’s extended family.  And included in the buffet was a fish caught by one of our fellow passengers, Phillip, the previous day as we were arriving at Palmerston. The fish, a trevally, was marinated in coconut milk and soy sauce and barbecued over coals complemented by coconut husks...a true taste sensation.


         The fish is placed under the leaves in the oven
   Simon preparing the fish in the beach oven

It was wonderful to see the beautiful manners of the children, and the respect shown to their elders. 
The islanders all speak perfect English.  The main religion is Christianity and the following morning dawned with the pealing of the nearby church bells calling the islanders to Friday prayers.  The bells were soon replaced by beautiful island singing…a dawn chorus with no rival.

We were able to all given a small monetary gift  to our host family and also a donation to Stella’s local medical centre.  Additionally, I had taken some hand towels, which Stella gratefully accepted for the medical centre, and colouring in books, pencils, and crayons for the little children

 It was with great reluctance and heavy hearts that we farewelled our friends on Palmerston.  We exchanged email addresses, hugs, kisses and promises to “keep in touch”. We were unable to promise that we would return…




Comments

  1. Hi there, we just returned from Palmerston, and yes it is a truly unique and as beautiful as the people who live there. A special place in the world in deed. We are planning to stat a regular 6 to 7 week trip there so they wont have to be so long with out creature comforts.
    Cheers,
    Capt. Ivan
    www.sailrarotonga.com

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Boyfriend, Manfriend, Partner, Companion…a new word required….

Dance "partners" (microsoft) I read a really interesting article the other day written by a Generation Y male lamenting that his girlfriend no longer referred to him as her “boyfriend”, but in an overheard conversation as her “partner”.  He took exception to this expression writing: “I must have missed the memo on my sexless new categorisation – I would certainly not have approved it.  A ‘partner’ is someone you twirl around at a barn dance”. (Andy Jones, Grazia magazine) I have had a business partner;  there are partners in law, stockbroking and accounting firms. And so to refer to my personal life-sharer as a partner was not comfortable for me. But despite the fact that the English language is alive and evolving, there is not a word or an expression to reflect the status of one’s “life companion” whether in a gay or straight relationship if not committed to, or already married. The word “companion” actually applies in both French and Italian. Although in Engl

Bali…Bogans, Tattoos and the Ugly Australian…

Balinese temple (photo LP 2010) I have returned in the past few days from a holiday in Bali, Indonesia, with my sister.  Unlike my trip in 2010 when I stayed more remotely in the north west at Pemuteran  and  the north east at Amed, this visit was to a five star resort in Legian. What a difference!  The streets of Legian were very busy, the locals almost outnumbered by the Australian tourists.  I heard very few languages other than “Aussie” spoken and it reminded me that when I travelled with my French boyfriend to the northern part of Bali, I was told by the Europeans I met that they tended to avoid the tourist hubs of Kuta, Legian and Seminyak because of the loud, rude and crude Australians…yes a generalisation about the Aussies, but unfortunately, as I was to learn, a correct one. A friendly local trying to sell us a toy (photo LP 2012) It is difficult to write this post without appearing a “snob”.  But having canvassed my ideas with friends, acquaintances, col

Friendships...gold and silver...real and virtual...priceless!

My 21st birthday dinner...Oh so formal then! I was talking with a friend the other day about friendship.  About how it impacts on our lives, from childhood and teenage friends, to becoming friends with boyfriends’s friends, husband’s friends and their wives, parents of other school children, social club friends,  friends after divorce or death of a partner, passing friendships, acquaintances…and now virtual friends. It’s complicated. And I am finding in my “middle” years that my need for friends has reduced…not that I don’t value and cherish my friends, but my actual need has lessened.  Why, I wonder?  I used always be a “People who need People” (with apologies to whoever wrote the song made famous in  Funny Girl ) sort of a person.  I was always out and about, making sure that I saw my friends, knew all that was going on with them and theirs.  Afternoon tea for the girls...with bubbles! However, as the years have moved on, my children have become independent